containing
more on the cumquat project: the process of containment and storing the transformed fruit.
(as a recipe aside, at this point i’d added a few tablespoons of grated fresh ginger to the simmering pan of fruit, sugar and water, as per the recipe. so this is now officially ‘cumquat & ginger marmalade”)
once cooled a little, the marmalade mixture needed to be put into jars. over the years i’ve lived in the house there’s always been a steady collection of jars under the sink. a reluctance to recycle something that can be reused i suppose, and often they are filled with little treats from the co-op, or the bigger ones with flours/beans/nuts. and a lot of jam gets eaten in the house, so there’s a great selection of ‘appropriate’ jam jars.
one of the key steps that recipes emphasise in preserving is the sterilisation of the containers. in the past i’ve been fastidious, boiling jars in water for 10 minutes, drying the, not touching the inner glass. this time too i was fastidious, but relied on modern technologies to sterilise for me – they went through the dishwasher, and then i half filled each one with water and put them in the microwave for 5 minutes. the water boiled, the jars were clean and fresh, and left to cool on the bench. the cleanliness of the container so as not to contaminate the thing being preserved inside; the same way an archive box is clean, empty and meets archival standards.
so the sterilised jars are filled with the marmalade, and left to settle into the jar (and cool a little) before the lid is screwed on. most of them even worked to ’suck’ the press button of the lid back in, indicating an unopened jar of jam (‘just like you get at the shop’).
and now all 9 of those jars have been sitting on my kitchen bench for over a week, waiting to be labeled and put in the cupboard, or given away to people (most are promised already). and in this project of endurance, of the length and effort involved in preserving things for the future, i still have a while to go.
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simmering sliced skins
part of the cumquat marmalade making project was about endurance. following things through, taking the time to do something well. following the instructions but also improvising where required.
after the cumquats were sliced and de-seeded, they soaked in water for 8 or so hours. then i boiled them in soaking water until tender, added a huge amount of sugar, and kept the mixture simmering until it set to a jelly-consistency. the recipe book said this would take about 20 minutes. in reality, i think it took about 2 hours; two hours of fearing i might burn the marmalade (as i have done in the past, recalling a winter as housewife in whitstable), or that maybe the pectin (released from the seeds i saved and soaked) wasn’t good, or there wasn’t enough of it. but eventually, many hours and taste testing later, the marmalade set enough (on a cold saucer, fresh from the freezer) for it to be time to put the transformed fruit into containers.
transformation
this idea of transformation is what i love about the process. we still call this cumquat marmalade, referring to the original fruit that i bought at the greengrocer (that many others planted, tended, pruned & picked & packed & transported to glebe) but it has been transformed. but eating the marmalade (i imagine) will still invoke the sense of cumquat, or the ‘feeling’ of the fruit (not the literal touch-sense-feeling, but a more affectual sense of feeling)
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lost bread
one of those rare occasions where you tear out a recipe from the weekend magazine and actually cook it. this is french toast, with croissants instead of bread. and cherries, stewed apple and yoghurt. so decadent for a friday morning.
the recipe called it ‘pain perdu’ (hence the lost bread). but it’s basically your everyday french toast recipe, just using the croissants (sliced through the centre) to soak up the egginess instead of bread. fried in a little butter and voila.
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monday evening baking
coming home worn out and seeking comfort on a monday night, i set about baking. these are a big adaptation of the moosewood vegan chocolate cake.
mix together:
1.5 cups of wholemeal plain flour
1 cup brown sugar
1 teaspoon cinnamon
2 apples, cored and cut into small bits
6 or 7 bits of preserved/sugared ginger, chopped into small bits
1/2 tsp salt
1 tsp bicarb soda
in another bowl, mix together:
1 cup cold tea (i used traditional afternoon tea)
1/2 cup vegetable oil
vanilla (i used 1/3 of a vanilla pod)
add the wet to the dry, mix together until combined well, then add 1-2 tablespoons apple cider vingear.
put into muffin tin and bake for 20 mins or so at 200 degrees (in my gas oven…). this made 10.
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the cumquat project
at home they sat on the bench for a couple of days. this morning the painters came at 6.50am, and i decided to use the hours of the day that i’d found to start my cumquat marmalade making project.
i sat and chopped 800g of miniature oranges (although, as the women’s weekly fruit and vegetable book says here, they are “not a true citrus fruit”).
as i sliced the cumquats and removed the seeds (putting them in a separate bowl) i had a lot of time to think.
endurance
i’m struggling with my study at the moment. i can’t read the volumes of pages i really want, and need to read. i sit, start, and then get distracted. i have extremely low endurance for most things at the moment, reading and writing included. i tire or bore easily, even when it’s really exciting stuff th read. so as i sat and started slicing, i realised this was going to take me a while; i had to do it otherwise the marmalade wouldn’t get made, and the cumquats would go to waste.
(watch the video here if it doesn’t work)
so i persevered. got distracted here and there, but endured the slicing to the end. and now there’s a big bowl of sliced cumquats and 6 cups of water sitting on the bench, alongside a smaller bowl of cumquat seeds in a cup of water.
preservation
maybe you know about my phd project, maybe you don’t. in a nutshell though, i spend a lot of my time at the moment thinking about archives, and the spaces outside of the traditional archival institutions that also make and collect memories. maybe it’s a bedroom, maybe it’s a diy infoshop. but to think about these spaces i also need to think about the traditional spaces, and what archiving is all about. i tried to even be an archivist for most of last year, but some of the issues i’m looking at now really got to me then. inspired the project even.
one thing that archivists and archives do is preserve. artefacts, objects, memory, history. and i sat there, slicing the cumquats and removing the seeds, realising that i was preserving. i was an archivist of sorts all over again. it all started to get a bit wanky here, but i really did have one of those moments where it all made sense, where the cumquat marmalade becomes a metaphor for the object in the archive. preserved. transformed. in a different form, but still a cumquat. out of context. in a container.
the seeds are removed, soaked in water, the water strained of the seeds and added to the sliced fruit as a setting agent. the pectin in the seeds has been soaked out and reused in a different form. like taking the staples out of a zine before you place it in the plastic sleeve to go inside an archive box.
decay
if you don’t preserve something, it will decay, rot, go to waste, not be usable anymore. preserving fruit and vegetables mean their life can be extended and we get more out of them; out of the superfluous produce at certain times of the year. we preserve with good quality fruit, not damaged ones, and the fruit that makes the jam or marmalade that we like the taste of. in an archive, we preserve those things of quality, whether physical or historical quality. we extend their life, and find other uses for them. we make decisions about what to preserve (‘appraisal’) and they become the things that we find our history or memories in.
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a zine for tina
the festival, not the friend. full of little recipes and interesting quotes. and lps.
email me if you want one, i’ve got loads, printed with love at the rizzeria.
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from berlin to sydney
when i was in berlin a few months ago i ate a whole lot of fresh tempeh. the girls are back in sydney from berlin, and we celebrated their return with more eating of tempeh. what was to be a bbq but sydney got really cold, really quick. so it became a pie and vegetable dinner, with lots of wine and conversation between the five of us.
mushroom & tempeh pie
(in the 9 years bim and i dated she refused to eat tempeh. now when i cook it there’s always a little moment of acknowledging that tempeh can taste good. especially done my way)
in an oven proof saucepan fry up a chopped onion, then a block of cubed tempeh, 2 big handfuls of chopped brown mushrooms and a big dash of red wine. leave to simmer for a bit, then add some chopped green beans, tamari, tabasco and whole cherry tomatoes. and cider vinegar if you have it. this whole process should take about 15 minutes.
peel and thinly slice a big potato, and layer the potato over the top. dab with a few bits of nuttelex and bake in the oven until golden.
served here with red cabbage sauerkraut (chopped red cabbage, pressure cooked and dressed with cider vinegar and caraway seeds), broccolli steamed and dressed with pinenuts and garlic, and asparagus steamed and drowned in lemon juice.
and some qp mayonnaise on top for the extar creaminess.
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the frozen pea indulgence
twice this week i’ve reached for the packet of peas in the freezer. shame on me, but also much excitement.
there’s a changing of the guards taking place at the moment (the mountains are calling the writer in my midst) and we’ve been apathetically interviewing potential housemates. last night, after a second visit, the deal was done and in a few weeks all will be a bit more stable at home again (with a flurry of painters in between).
this is the leek and bean cassoulet from my favourite cookbook of the moment, veganomicon.
the stew
2 potatoes, peeled and diced
3 cups of veges stock
a couple of tablespoons of flour
2 tbsp olive oil
2 leeks, thinly sliced
3 golden shallots, cubed
3 carrots, diced
2 cloves garlic, minced (how much fin is the garlic crusher?)
a big tablespoon of chopped thyme
3/4 cup frozen peas
a tin of white beans – we used butter, but the smaller ones could be better
stir the flour into the vege stock
boil the diced potatoes till tender, set aside
in the dutch oven, saute the leeks, carrots and shallots in the vege oil until soft and almost browning.
add the garlic, thyme and salt and pepper
cook for a minute, then add the cooked potatoes and frozen peas and vege stock
simmer for about 7 minutes
the scones (or swans, as paul called them)
3/4 cup soy milk
1 tsp cider vinegar
1.5 cups plain flour
2 tsp baking powder
salt
1/4 cup nuttelex
put the vinegar into the soy milk and let it curdle
mix all the dry ingredients together, then add the nuttelex and use your fingers to make it breadcrumb like.
add the curdled milk and stir it all together. it needs to be dough like, a little sticky but not too much (i had to add more flour)
make small balls of the dough and cover the stew with them
bake in a hot oven until the scones are golden brown
(it’s also great cold for lunch the next day with tomato pickles)
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rock on vegan pizza
my body really does dictate what i eat. it’s well and truly made me go off the dairy, after trying to re-introduce it slowly. maybe it’s a southern hemisphere thing – i seemed fine all through the northern hemisphere a few months ago.
this is a sunday-night-in dinner for me and my much loved housemates (and a little celebration of certain vogel prize shortlistings…). i made up a vegan ricotta to put on the pizza instead of cheese, and it rocked my world.
vegan ricotta
blend:
- half a block of firm tofu
- two teaspoons of white miso
- half a handful of walnuts
- juice of half a lemon, and
- 2 tablespoons olive oil
until smooth and creamy. add more oil or lemon juice to make it smoother if you want. it goes this weird grey colour but tastes amazing.
the pizza
on a pre-made thin pizza base i put a tomato sauce thing (tomato paste, water and garlic – there were no tomatoes to be found in the house!), and topped the pizza with thinly sliced zucchini, mushrooms, capsicum, olives and fried sliced leeks (the best addition after the ricotta). splodge the ‘ricotta’ on top and bake in a hot oven until golden.
served here with a very classy iceberg lettuce and snowpea salad (feels like the mid-nineties again) and a ‘moutarde aux provence’ dressing.
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the hot chocolate
way back in 2007, in the dark, cold depths of a london winter, i invented what i like to call the ’socially appropriate vegan hot chocolate’.
i was going with my (social mores deficient) then lover to an old friend of hers’ apartment, and i suggested it would be appropriate to turn up with something. a gift of sorts. but between the train station and the flat all we found was a 7-11, where i spontaneously bought a litre of soy milk and a block of lindt chilli dark chocolate. and then we kept walking in the cold and turned up not-empty-handed and much more socially appropriate. we played the happy couple talking with the other couple, drinking hot chocolate and all was well in the world.
the socially appropriate vegan hot chocolate
heat a litre of soy milk slowly on a low heat.
break up a block of (dark for the vegan element) lindt chocolate
let it melt in, stir a bit and that’s it.
serve in pretty cups with good conversation
this photo is of the hot chocolate i made myself tonight, on a cool spring night in sydney, a long way from the ex lover, but with still fond memories of the times.
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